Yes, that is a line spilling out of a door onto the sidewalk on a Tuesday afternoon in the middle of Queens. And this is no small feat, especially when you consider that the people are waiting for Greek food in a neighborhood where every corner seems to hustle some version of spanakopita, octopus, and spit-fired lamb. Taverna Kyclades chef-owner Ardian Skenderi, a former pro-basketball point guard from Athens, offers a simple explanation: “I cook with my heart,” he says. He serves straightforward, classic Greek fare like whole fish filleted tableside, sizzling skillets of clams and prawns and crabmeat, and braised dandelion greens. Portions are enormous, and a complimentary custard-cloud of galaktoboureko kisses you farewell at the end — if you can grab it before it runs out.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 15, 2014