Best Of

Best Korean Restaurant


Home cooking hardly gets homier than owner and chef Gap Soon Cho’s southwestern Korean fare at Myung San, an unassuming Flushing joint that’s been in business for over a decade. Cho runs the restaurant with her two children and grows much of the menu’s produce herself. Her array of vegetables in a ssambap spread is the stuff of botanists’ wet dreams, but the restaurant is perhaps most admired and admonished for serving cheonggukjang, a malodorous fermented soybean mash that’s used to make a pungent brew of the same name, affectionately dubbed “dead body stew” thanks to its smell. There’s a pervasive nuttiness that’s cut by a sharp, almost cheese-like saltiness, its tempestuous flavors settling into a low hum of rotten musk. The Chos also serve two kinds of makgeolli, a cloudy white fermented-rice beverage — including one that’s produced locally at a farm in the Catskills.


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