There are two menus at the Bronx’s El Atoradero. One is the printed selection of masa-based goodies, like tacos, huaraches, and gorditas. The other is a handwritten slip that outlines what chef and proprietor Lina Chavez has conjured up that day. No matter which list you choose from, though, there are no clunkers here, and highlights include petite pork ribs stewed in a tomatillo salsa verde, chipotle-sauced meatballs with egg yolks embedded at their centers, wonderful tamale, and a gossamer horchata. This caliber of home-style Mexican cooking may make you reconsider your childhood sustenance. Chavez’s daughters are lucky kids.