Chef Einat Admony and her husband, Stefan Nafziger, were already at the forefront of Middle Eastern cooking in New York: They followed up Taïm, a celebrated falafel shop, with Balaboosta, a Mediterranean restaurant that borrows heavily from the Middle Eastern canon. They’ve only expanded that legacy with Bar Bolonat, which came online in 2014. Here, Admony draws directly from her Israeli upbringing, modernizing and upgrading favorite street-food staples — like the Jerusalem bagel — and gracefully executing traditional items like the Yemenite curry and tagine. Months ago, the chef told us that her goal was to expose people to what this region’s food is about. In doing so, she has also opened a window into what Middle Eastern food can be — a cornerstone of high-stakes dining in this city. This menu is a thrill ride through deeply nuanced flavors, showcased in inventive dishes you won’t find anywhere else.