Anyone can throw together a pile of chips and cheese, but it takes a special soul to put in the effort required to build a truly exemplary platter of nachos. Each ingredient should be lovingly selected and tended, and all should be layered evenly, lest you be stuck with dry chips at the end of your gorge. At Taqueria Diana, a sliver of space in the East Village, the kitchen turns out nachos on a sheet tray, enough food to feed three people, easy. Quality has not been sacrificed for quantity, either — a mound of just-fried chips, fat with oil, is layered with white cheddar; jalapeños; sour cream; pinto, black, or refried beans (we go refried); and a meat of your choice (we recommend the juicy carnitas). Globs of guacamole crown the stack, and you should add salsa from the squeeze bottles sitting in a caddy. The habanero variety, in particular, adds a nice, bracing bite.