Nitecap isn’t a speakeasy — those fell out of fashion at some point during the last couple of years — but you will have to look hard for the sign, which is stenciled on a brick pillar next to Schapiro’s on Rivington Street. You might notice the bouncer standing there, too, and sometimes there’s a telltale line — this is a project from Death & Co.’s David Kaplan and Alex Day and Maison Premiere alum Natasha David, after all. And like Death & Co., the drink list here is long, though its tenor is less fussy. Sure, there are cocktails made with cachaça or Calvados plus a handful of ingredients, and the brandy list is impressive or intimidating, depending upon whom you ask. But there’s also “Shorty Service,” which buys you a short pour of beer or wine and a slug of something stronger, and the menu is littered with jokes and drinking games. This is a place where you could easily entertain drinkers of all different stripes and levels of expertise, but it’s also a neighborhood bar you can relax into when you’re just after a beer. We could use a few more of those, no?