Jeremy and Jennifer Marshall opened this Soho seafood stalwart in 1996, and Aquagrill has since amassed a faithful clientele of bivalve fetishists who’ve kept the place humming nearly 20 years. A massive raw bar anchors the dining room, piled high with over 30 different oyster varieties and a number of other special sea creatures (sea urchin, whelks) just waiting for consumption. The mollusks find their way into simple, plated presentations with cocktail sauce or mignonette, as well as grand bistro-style shellfish towers fit for a celebration. And while Aquagrill’s raw bar doesn’t foster the same admiration among shell-slurping night owls as Blue Ribbon’s icy hillocks, the Marshalls know oysters better than just about anyone in town. Let them school you.