Manhattan’s Little Italy may be disappearing, but up in the Bronx, an enclave of descendants from that southern European nation still lead a vibrant existence, turning out cured meats, freshly made cheeses, just-shelled clams, and filled-to-order cannoli from a stretch of shopfronts along Arthur Avenue. And you won’t find the tourists here that fill the sidewalks downtown — most of the patrons of these spots are neighbors, and they speak Italian with shopkeepers while they pick up their groceries. Join them as they wander down the avenue, and sample as you go. Drop into the Arthur Avenue Retail Market’s beer garden for a drink and a snack, and don’t miss La Cantina for a bottle of wine. When you’ve finished your shopping, stop by one of the restaurants — we recommend Dominick’s or Tra di Noi, both of which serve hearty plates of pasta in dining rooms full of regulars.