Read crowdsourced reviews of Do or Dine and you’ll notice Justin Warner’s menu garners fervent fans and harsh critics at a near-equal rate. The Food Network Star winner’s dishes have never been for everyone — they’re bizarre combinations of ingredients that irreverently mash together different cultures, and you wouldn’t be alone in wondering whether the chef was intoxicated when he put together his recipes. More than three years after the doors opened, greatest hits of the early days remain on the list, including the famous foie gras doughnut, made in collaboration with nearby bakery Dough, and the Nippon Nachos. And why shouldn’t they be? They still hold up. So does Warner’s attitude and passion for innovation, which means this place is always worth the trek — if you don’t love your meal, you’ll at least eat something different from what you’re ordering everywhere else, and you’ll have a good time chatting up this restaurant’s cheeky staff and watching the neighbors drop in for dinner.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 15, 2014
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