Some call Walker Stern and Joseph Ogrodnek geniuses for their culinary aptitude (their shared résumé includes time at Blue Hill and Gramercy Tavern), but their business savvy isn’t far behind: They used the pea-sized quarters of Battersby as honest character-building grounds (for chefs and diners alike) to get ready for Dover, an epicurean playground in Carroll Gardens. With its à la carte quadrants, the menu welcomes the solo-dish diner, even one on a Brooklyn-esque budget; some dishes, such as summer-corn-accompanied lobster or salmon with baby fennel, are proposed as half- or full orders. If you can do it, though, it’s worth saving your pennies for a whimsical seven-course tasting menu, which strolls through ruby-red shrimp with Muscat grapes, tajarin with fava beans and ramps, and lamb ribs with eggplant and peanuts.
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