If you find yourself hungry in Chelsea, forgo the warehouse spaces that line the West Side Highway and secure yourself a nook in the snug front barroom at El Quinto Pino, where you can dig into inventive Spanish dishes — the “Bikini de Huitlacoche,” pressed triangles of dough stuffed with funky Mexican corn fungus, poblano peppers, and melted mozzarella; a braised tongue acidified by capers and tomatoes; and an uni panino that begs you to try that sushi-menu staple — from chefs Alex Raij and Eder Montero. If you’re looking to do more than start your night chasing snacks with sangria, venture into the wine bar’s airy modern dining room for rotating regional fare. There, the kitchen serves a smoky Andalusian gazpacho that will transport you far beyond the confines of West 24th Street.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 15, 2014
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