After realizing that serving up New American no longer excited him, Michael Jacober closed his Crown Heights restaurant, Glady’s, and reopened with a bang. Inspired by living in the largely Caribbean neighborhood, he now serves West Indian food in an airy, aquamarine dining room. There’s no doubt that the area is gentrifying, and the reinvented Glady’s along with it, but Jacober and his team have done so with such meticulousness and reverence for the food that the restaurant still serves the community in earnest. The kitchen imports fresh green wood from Jamaica to slow-cook jerk chicken and pork, which are both under $10 and large enough to share. Pepper shrimp swim in spicy, smoky oil, and curried goat has ample depth. Sides clock in at $3 for plates like lacquered sweet plantains, bok choy, and oblong cornbread fritters called festivals. Shannon Mustipher has rounded up a rum selection that’s one of the best in the borough, if not the city. Even so, most folks go for the frozen drinks with short, stout straws in flavors like “Dark ‘N’ Stormy” or “Bajita Rosa,” a paloma-inspired number that balances tequila, grapefruit, melon, and a smack of hot pepper. In offering elevated comfort food to Caribbean expats at affordable prices, Jacober and Glady’s are shining examples of gentrification done right.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 15, 2014