Along a tony stretch of pavement, where Gramercy Park key holders push prams and insulate themselves from the city’s grime, sits Maialino, Danny Meyer’s Roman tribute, where, thanks to the hospitality that pervades all of this restaurateur’s enterprises, you’ll be treated like you, too, live life in the lap of luxury. Yes, you should order the suckling pig, and you should indulge in some pasta: say, the bucatini all’amatriciana, which is bathed in lightly peppery pork-infused tomato sauce and topped with crackling bits of pork skin. But don’t forget to peruse seasonal offerings — the kitchen makes beautiful ingredients shine spectacularly, brilliantly capturing and refining the Italian approach to a meal. And be sure to pair your dishes to wine — each season, the restaurant highlights different Italian oddities not usually seen by the glass. Your server can walk you through unfamiliar grapes, ensuring you find something novel and immensely gratifying.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 15, 2014