Craning necks are more a staple of midtown dining than heads tilted toward plates, but at opulently outfitted Betony, you may find it difficult to focus on anything besides your food. Chef Bryce Shuman serves inspired modern American dishes, like tagliatelle thickened with ham hock and hen’s egg, and dill-tweaked poached lobster. And those best dishes can be sampled at lunchtime, too, when the restaurant offers one of the city’s newest haute bargains: two courses for $38. Come early at dinner to beat the crowd, and stop by the bar, where you can sip from an ample mixed-drinks list overseen by Eamon Rockey, who refines classic cocktails, sweetening a pisco sour with gum arabic, and combining juniper and vodka in lieu of gin in the house g&t. He’s developed something of a following for his clarified milk punches, which change with the seasons and are a refreshing place to start.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 15, 2014