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Best Restaurant in Soho

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At his eponymous restaurant Hirohisa, chef Hirohisa Hayashi serves kappo-style cuisine, a Japanese dining format wherein a chef cooks hot and cold dishes behind a counter. Here, each temperature gets its own prep area, and diners, between sips of sake, watch the chef devise nuanced plates like tofu with sea urchin and shredded wasabi. You can cobble together a meal à la carte or put your stomach in Hayashi’s hands for seven- or nine-course omakase tasting menus. The whitewashed room makes for a serene backdrop against the quiet hum of the kitchen.

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