What kind of animal recommends a $25 salad? Apprehension is a sensible reaction to that figure, but the sophisticated lunchtime greens at Andrew Carmellini’s Lafayette often elicit whispered gasps and mumbled exclamations of “saint-merde!” Expletives in any language are bound to fly when the Dutch and Locanda Verde chef subs in lobes of gently seared yellowfin toro for the usual canned stuff, which plants the dish in luxe territory right off the bat. The rest of the ingredients are orthodox, but of exceptional quality: haricots verts, olives, tomatoes, anchovies, and a boiled egg with fudgy yolk. Dressed in tart vinaigrette, this entrée’s a looker with big flavors to boot.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 15, 2014