Like so many heroes before him, chef Will Horowitz is in possession a prized blade that belonged to his ancestors. But rather than slaying fantastical creatures, the soulful chef sharpens his steel for the purpose of slicing late-night smoked meat. Made from the deckle of the brisket and served after 10:30 p.m. nightly, the pastrami sandwich at Ducks Eatery redefines the genre with heapings of dill, anchovy-Meyer-lemon mustard, and cucumbers fermented in buttermilk with rye and caraway seeds. Horowitz favors large hunks of pastrami to show off the quality of his product, which practically melts. Order one and be your own champion.