Huertas chef and owner Jonah Miller noticed New York City was short on places that translate the Spanish dining experience — a lively traipse through bites and booze that unfolds spontaneously, with diners accepting tapas as they fly out of the kitchen over many hours of drinking. That’s what the front of his restaurant channels, with well-crafted Basque-style pintxos — some traditional, some New Yorkified — served dim sum–style to groups huddled in booths and at counters. The ambitious young chef wanted to flex his culinary creativity, too, though, and so he installed a five-course tasting menu in his back room. This constantly evolving set of dishes exhibits Spain’s famous modern whimsy. That Miller’s writing a feverish love letter to the Iberian peninsula gives this place extra soul, and that, more than the excellent food, is what’s going to keep you coming back.