Good New Yorkers are rightly skeptical of the California newbies who blow into town; these restaurateurs often feel like they’re blessing the Big Apple with taco art that’s superior because they’re from west of the Mississippi. But we can’t quibble with Californian-owned Los Tacos No. 1, nor can we find fault with the spot’s pork adobada, which is lashed with a chile-vinegar marinade and spun on the spit to succulence. The taqueria’s excellent tortillas, made from nixtamalized corn prepared in house, are thickish, springy, and taste resoundingly of fresh corn. Great salsa bar, too, gentlemen. Touché.
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