As if you needed an excuse to consume nachos: National Nacho Day is tomorrow (Thursday), and that is clearly a legitimate reason. Long thought of as the best nachos in Williamsburg are the Cadillac nachos at beloved dive The Commodore — the platter is also one of the most solid items on the menu. But there is a new contender for the neighborhood crown for the artful arrangement of cheese on chips. The Meathook Sandwich Shop (495 Lorimer Street, Brooklyn; 718-302-4665) is serving nachos ($8) on Saturdays and Sundays (and tomorrow, for happy hour, from 4 to 7 p.m.), piling up the Nixtamal Tortilleria tortilla chips and loading on the toppings.
“We love the Commodore’s nachos,” says Ashley Berman, head sandwich slinger. “But we wanted the cheese sauce to be even cheesier.”
Meathook melts as much American cheese as it can into a béchamel, adding chopped pickled cherry peppers, which dot the pool with scarlet skins. The molten dairy cloaks the chips like liquid pimento cheese. The meat sauce is brazen and fiery, a molten lava of green chile sown through with chopped-up ends of roast beef and some smoked trotter stock. It carries a lengthy, smoldering heat. The Nixtamal chips are sturdy enough to handle the added weight of cilantro, guacamole, sour cream, and pickled jalapeños.
You can only get this dish on Saturdays and Sundays, when you’ll find football on the newly installed flat-screen and cold beer.
More in the way of New York nachos:
Taqueria Diana’s Nachos, One of Our 100 Favorite Dishes
Calexico’s Nachos, One of Our 100 Favorite Dishes
Do or Dine’s Nippon Nachos, One of Our 100 Favorite Dishes
Five Spots for Nachos on National Nacho Day (2013)
Scarlett Lindeman is a Brooklyn-based writer, covering the city’s best taquerias, fondas, and cantinas.