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Last night, Javier Goya, Javier Mayor, and David Alfonso — the three chefs behind TriCiclo, a buzzy restaurant in Madrid — descended upon Louro’s burners. From there, in collaboration with Sarah Simmons’s City Grit pop-ups, they put out five courses of dishes that represent their country and their restaurant. There was a bracing salad of mollusks, seaweed, and kelp. Then came a garlic soup, the broth murky and rich with egg yolk and pancetta crumble. Striped bass pooled in an herbaceous broth preceded a chicken leg coated in a sauce reminiscent of mole; the meal finished with bright fruits speckled with verdant herbs.
The chefs spoke about their dishes, as well, noting challenges with sourcing certain ingredients here in the U.S. and explaining the origins of their dishes. That garlic soup, for instance, was an elevated version of a traditional peasant dish.
TriCiclo is here as part of Madrid Chefs in New York, a week-long series of events celebrating some of the top talent from that Iberian capital. And you still have time to make a dinner, if you so choose; events are happening all over the city until Saturday.
The talent was curated for these parties by David Muñoz, a three-Michelin-star chef who presides over DiverXO. He gave his own dinner at Atera on Monday night, and he’s selected chefs he believes represent the best of what’s happening currently in Madrid, a city of 53,500 restaurants.
Tonight, Estanis Carenzo will serve a meal at Contra; the chef is an Argentine who owns three restaurants in Madrid: Sudestada and Chifa, both Latin American, and Picsa, a Buenos Aires-style pizzeria. He’s also teamed up with City Grit for a lunch on Saturday, which will also take place at Louro.
And you still might be able to score a seat at Betony to experience Óscar Velasco’s cooking; the chef earned two Michelin stars for his work at SantCeloni Hesperia. He’s behind the burners in midtown tomorrow and Friday.
If our meal is any indication, these events are a good way to sample what’s going on in some high-profile kitchens on the other side of the world.
Make reservations directly through the restaurants offering the dinners.