Food

An Early (Vegetarian) Taste of Morris Sandwich Shop in Crown Heights

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Morris Sandwich Shop (569 Lincoln Place) began as Morris Truck, a food truck that specialized in varieties of grilled cheese sandwiches. Now, four years and two food trucks later, owner Michael Jacober has opened a brick-and-mortar shop, and has branched out from just grilled cheese, offering an array of fun and affordable sandwiches.

“My original cooking background focused on meat and root vegetables, rather than vegetables as a whole,” says Jacober. “I didn’t really get into the finite details of vegetarian cooking until 2009, when [I was shown] that vegetables are really delicate and you can overcook them, you can undercook them. There’s, like, a real balance to how you prepare vegetables properly.”

And so he’s put a lot of thought into how he uses vegetables on his menu. “When composing vegetarian dishes, it’s cool to cook the same vegetable a couple different ways,” he says. “For example, the way we feature kale on a sandwich: We’ll pickle it, we’ll sauté it, we’ll roast it, we’ll serve it raw. It’s kind of featuring one vegetable and just showing how preparing it differently can really make your end product different.”

Jacober’s main focus for his sandwich the Mona ($8) was to play with texture. The Mona features a cauliflower purée, roasted beets, kale, pickles, radish, a soft-boiled egg and sweet chile mayo on focaccia. The interplay of something soft, something crunchy, something salty, and something sweet is present in this sandwich.

While the sweet chile mayo isn’t exactly sweet, it provides a light spice that kicks the entire sandwich up a notch. The pickles are slightly overpowering, but interestingly, the beets are sliced thin like deli meat, offering the illusion that you might actually be eating a non-vegetarian sandwich. The purée is a compelling addition; while it doesn’t provide any additional flavor, it definitely adds another soft texture to the sandwich. The bread is where you’ll find the crunch.