It doesn’t look like much. A puddle of vermillion flooding one side of the plate; the other half, filled with unadorned white rice. But while the chile relleno ($11) at Cerveceria Havemeyer may not catch the eye, it makes up for it in the mouth. It’s an uncommon order for the taco and beer hall, hiding in plain sight on the back of the menu. The only people who actually order it may be those who have stolen a bite from a friend’s plate and have been converted.
The chile is roasted to suppleness, all trace of seeds and skin removed, then dipped in a frothy egg-white batter, fried, and bathed in a tomato sauce. It’s soft and crisp at the same time, nestled into the red sauce, stitched with garlic and chile, almost creamy. Unlike so many chiles rellenos with unyielding blocks of cheese at their centers, this one oozes; the long, action-shot strands of melted cheese cling to the fork even after you raise it high above your head, and then pool into the sauce like luxurious putty. The rice, and tortillas served on the side, help soak it all up. Make more converts and force a bite on your friends the next time you order it.
149 Havemeyer Street
Brooklyn, NY 11211