You’ll pour your own wine at Pardon My French (103 Avenue B; 212-358-9683), a restaurant from Brazilian-French chef Guilherme Barreto — the restaurant serves via an old tradition called à la ficelle: a method of wine payment that counts how many glasses you’ve consumed using a knotted string.
That way of drinking sets the stage for an experience characterized by sharing with friends: Barreto’s menu features a considerable number of tapas, which take cues from French-inflected cultures from around the globe. Beef tartare comes piled on a barley chip, and bone marrow is served atop a baguette. Look, too, for a bucket of Creole-style cod fritters, braised octopus, and duck armagnac. There are main courses, too, if eating from the same plates as your buddies makes you queasy. Try the chicken tagine, sea bass filet stew, or a grilled rib eye.
While only the house red and white are available à la ficelle to start, the bar here carries a deep wine list, and it offers unique cocktails, too. The “Demon’s Potion” — a gin-based drink with egg whites — is garnished with a dried baby rose. “Dirty Tales” combines rum and brown sugar.
And even if you can’t round up a group to partake, you’ll be comfortable here: the long, white tiled bar offers plenty of space for single dining.
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This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on March 26, 2015