AvroKO, the restaurant group behind Public and Saxon + Parole and the design and architecture team behind Beauty & Essex, is back with GENUINE Superette (191 Grand Street). Like its sibling incarnation, GENUINE Roadside (Gotham West Market), the superette serves up laid-back favorites with a California vibe: burgers, tacos, salads, juices, and ice cream sandwiches, which are “an Instagram moment for sure,” says executive chef Brad Farmerie.
Guest chefs — three initially, but expect more to come — bring a surprising twist to the proceedings. There are juices by way of mixology from Eben Freeman, and fish ‘n’ chips from Michelin-starred chef Paul Liebrandt (“a must-try,” says Farmerie) that draw on his British roots.
And then there’s dessert. “Sam Mason’s ice cream sandwiches are like nothing you’ve eaten before,” says Farmerie. “He starts with incredible ice creams, pairs them with interesting syrups and toppings, and puts them inside brioche that’s toasted. They’re just so much fun.”
The miso cherry ice cream sandwich arrives, warm and crisp on the outside, giving no hint of the surprise that is to come. One bite reveals the cold, still (just) solid center, studded with cherries and slicked with swirls of butterscotch syrup. Immediately, a bead of ice cream drips down my arm. Not elegant, for sure, but addictive. Sweet, tart, cold, cozy, all in one pocket of flavor.
Farmerie’s other top pick: “The olive oil, balsamic caramel, and strawberry jam sandwich. So good.”
Right now, Superette is open for lunch and dinner, from 11 a.m. to midnight, but starting April 27, breakfast kicks off at 8 a.m. A basement bar is set to open later this summer.
“This is casual food, satisfying food. But it’s also food you can feel good about. Sure, there are great burgers on the menu, but there are also great salads, too,” says Farmerie (the kale chef salad with miso dressing is well worth a try). “This is food I feel good about giving to my wife and kids, you know.”
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 21, 2015