All hail the Bruffin, that latest linguistic mash-up baked good to find the spotlight in the swanky new Gansevoort Market (The Bruffin Café, 52 Gansevoort Street, NYC). A hybrid brioche/croissant smothered with fillings, it’s rolled up like a cinnamon bun and baked in a muffin tray so that the edges are crisp and flaky while the center stays soft and pillowy. A damn good idea, basically, whatever you think of the name.
“People think, ‘Oh, it’s a Cronut thing,’ ” sighs co-owner Michael Bagley. “But actually, the Bruffin came first! My partner Medy [Yousef] invented it four years ago. He’s not a trained pastry chef, but he grew up in Paris in a family of bakers, so he has this real instinct and logic about his baking. I’m always looking for food I can eat on the run, so one day he layered bacon and cheddar in a brioche dough and baked it in a muffin tin for me. It’s like a breakfast brioche muffin. That’s where the name comes from.”
The pair started selling Bruffins at the Long Island City Food and Flea, then were invited to be in Smorgasburg in the winter of 2013–14.
The Bruffin has changed a little over the years. “The dough is lighter now, more flaky, a little closer to a croissant dough. And we mainly focus on savory flavors, which is a bit unusual,” says Bagley. Check out the Greek (minced beef, spinach, feta, and olives), the Canadian (maple bacon, cheddar cheese), and the Swedish (salmon, capers, goat cheese, and spinach).
The sweet varieties really let the Bruffin shine to its full potential: The Vanilla Apple is stuffed with fruit in an almond custard, and don’t miss the Chocolate Bacon Salted Caramel, as serious a pastry as you’ll find. Rich and warm and indulgent, it’s the perfect fortifying breakfast before a morning taking in the sights (and the crowds) at the new Whitney.