In the heart of that increasingly trendy stripe the High Line carves through Chelsea, Trestle on Tenth(242 Tenth Avenue; 212-645-5659) is a decade-old neighborhood stalwart and dining destination rolled into one. In cold weather, the intimately proportioned digs and Ralf Kuettel’s Swiss-inspired fare will warm your proverbial cockles. With the arrival of summer, the back doors open to a perfect patio oasis that mutes the traffic of Tenth Avenue to a relative murmur. That’ll warm you, and you might even find actual cockles on the menu, tossed with asparagus and basil and served over pasta.
No matter the season, we’ll always have the duck necks. An appetizer like no other, “Crispy Duck Necks With Rosemary and Garlic Aioli” might best be described as a gourmand’s chicken wing: Cleft into three-inch lengths, the necks are marinated, then dredged in a rosemary breading and crisped till all trace of fat is rendered away and the meat veritably sublimates off the bone. Not rich enough for your demanding palate? They’re served with a garlicky aioli whose tang cuts through the unctuousness even as its substance multiplies it.
Ask your server to help you choose a glass (or, better yet, a bottle) from Trestle’s iconoclastic, Eurocentric wine list — and make sure your napkin is close at hand.
The Village Voice is counting down to our Best of New York City issue in October. We’re combing the city every day, one dish at a time, to guide you to the most delicious food in NYC. These are our 100 Favorite Dishes for 2015, in no particular order, save for the top 10. To read about previous dishes, browse our 100 Favorite Dishes page.