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Best Dim Sum


The city’s oldest dim sum restaurant, Nom Wah Tea Parlor anchors one of Chinatown’s most charming side streets — the elbow-like Doyers — and has for nearly a century. But it wasn’t until restaurateur Wilson Tang (Fung Tu) took over the family business that its popularity exploded. Five years under his command and the vintage café feels timelier than ever, having hosted film shoots and this year’s Met Gala pre-party. It’s even expanded to Philadelphia. Despite the buzz, Nom Wah still feels entirely down to earth. Tang’s uncle Wally, who purchased the tea parlor in 1974 after more than twenty years as an employee, hangs around for quality control, ferrying plates of black-bean chicken feet, wobbly rice rolls, and shrimp-stuffed bean curd skins to diners. And in contrast to many of the city’s grander dim sum banquet halls, where servers dole out food from roving trolleys like bulimic Pac-Men, this old-fashioned dinette favors made-to-order dumplings that shine steamed, fried, or in soup. Can’t decide what to order? Try a “Fried Dim Sum Sampler.” The Homer Simpson–esque assortment of crunchy delights includes the restaurant’s “Original” egg roll (a crisp, bulky crepe stuffed with pork and cabbage) and chewy sesame balls filled with nutty, sweet lotus paste. 13 Doyers Street, Manhattan 10013, 212-962-6047,

This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 13, 2015

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