Best Of

Best Pastry Chef

by

Jesus Perea‘s affinity for the pastry station blossomed under Michael Laiskonis at Le Bernardin. That passion eventually led the Bronx-raised chef to Mexico City and Enrique Olvera, a pioneer of modern Mexican cooking, who opened Cosme last year in the Flatiron. Perea’s stunning dessert there, a charred corn husk meringue, became an instant classic when it debuted. The dish takes inspiration from a confection that Olvera and chef de cuisine Daniela Soto-Innes both enjoyed growing up, and it never fails to astound with its ashy, slightly savory shell juxtaposed against sweet corn mousse. Perea’s non-Instagram-famous compositions are equally delightful, likewise illuminating traditional Mexican flavors through a creative prism: He’s been known to top white-peach raspado (similar to granita) with a scoop of ice cream made from eggnog-like rompope, and once delivered a take on Bubu Lubu, a Mexican chocolate bar filled with marshmallow and strawberry jelly, but with cherries lending their fruity tang. Enjoyed after a memorable feast from Olvera and Soto-Innes, Perea’s sweets leave strong impressions of their own. 35 East 21st Street, Manhattan 10010, 212-913-9659, cosmenyc.com