Take a Tour of Glasserie’s Modern Mediterranean Eats in Greenpoint

Poking around a satchel of grilled plants served as a fitting introduction to chef Eldad Shem Tov’s waggish style of Mediterranean cooking, which he’s honed during time spent in modernist kitchens like Wylie Dufresne’s pioneering wd~50 and from running an ambitious project of his own, Shakuf, in Jaffa, Israel. After the latter’s closure, Shem Tov returned to New York City and found common purpose with Glasserie’s owner, Sara Conklin, who needed to replace her L.A.-bound opening chef. In the two years since taking over, Shem Tov has settled in to this isolated neck of north Kings County, inflecting Glasserie’s modern Mediterranean mission with his artistic yet elemental approach. — Zachary Feldman