For the past two years Soho Tiffin Junction has served only lunch, which has proved popular with NYU students and, according to social media, actress Phylicia Rashad. Dinner launched in early March; Jawahar Chirimar, Wylie Dufresne, and head chef Ramkumar Ramakrishnan’s menu of nine “Indian small plates” was whittled down from more than forty test recipes. Dufresne is one of several fine-dining chefs dipping a toe into the convenience market, though Soho Tiffin Junction aims a bit higher than most counter service spots. “It’s been exciting to see how we can take the fine-dining approach, streamline it, and imagine it being made on a larger scale,” Dufresne tells the Voice.
Dufresne, one of the culinary world’s most inspired tinkerers, was tasked with tweaking regional Indian recipes to appeal to a broader range of palates… Over the past decade as a chef, Dufresne has struggled to appeal to a mass audience. At a fast-casual restaurant near Washington Square Park, he may finally do just that. — Zachary Feldman