Freek’s Mill Impresses With Seasonal Small Plates and More in Gowanus

Freek’s Mill, which takes its name from a post–Revolutionary War structure that once stood in the area, connects with that older Gowanus, too, through its wood-fired oven. Quails are stuffed with cheesy brioche filling, browned in chef Chad Shaner’s domed furnace, and sauced with a jus made from their wings. Duck, its flavor intensified through dry-aging, has crisp skin to match surprisingly tasty refried cranberry beans. And in one of his most inspired moments, Shaner embeds medallions of smoked kohlrabi confit in buttery grits; it’s the vegetarian counterpoint to that jowl, and just as powerful. — Zachary Feldman

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Super Fun(d): Gowanus Cleans Up Nice at Freek’s Mill