Eat Your Way Through the City This Fall

by and

Critic’s Pick: “Sustainability matters to us on so many levels, from the products we serve to the employees that we take on to our rent checks every month,” partner Ennio Di Nino cheekily tells the Voice, speaking to the ethos he and chef-owner Adam Harvey will espouse at A&E Supply Co. (548 Fourth Avenue, Brooklyn,, their upcoming all-day market and restaurant in Gowanus. A coffee counter will open first, brewing up cups of Brooklyn Roasting Company java starting at 7 a.m. and offering pastries from local bakeries (including doughnut favorite Dough). The kitchen will also supply yogurt parfaits and steel-cut oatmeal — and, as the duo have “the commuting customer in mind,” it’s safe to say that a breakfast sandwich or two is on the horizon. The butcher shop will debut next, selling pastured poultry and various grass-fed cuts from Hardwick Beef, which sources its cattle from farms throughout Vermont. Harvey, a Top Chef Boston alum who hails from New York City, will incorporate many of those same meats into his eclectic menu at the emporium’s planned fifty-seat restaurant. At this final piece of his and Di Nino’s gastronomic puzzle, expect Mediterranean-influenced New American food, like raw beef sirloin tonnato with winesap apples, homemade headcheese, and brashly Southern-inflected chicken-nugget gnocchi. Diners may even have the opportunity to make special requests if they spot something in the butcher’s cold case that isn’t on the menu. When asked about the popular “farm to table” concept, Harvey dismisses it as a diluted one. “We’re calling this approach ‘farm to party,’ ” he assures. — Zachary Feldman 

abcV Opens in September Jean-Georges Vongerichten has always had more regard for vegetables than other chefs of his age and stature — evident on the menu at ABC Kitchen, where someone seeking red meat would have just one option, the cheeseburger. He’s taking it to the next level at abcV, though, where there won’t be a scrap of meat or fish in sight. The restaurant will focus entirely on vegetables and grains, with breakfast, lunch, and a to-go counter all set to launch before they start serving dinner. This will be the chef’s third collaboration with ABC Home, following Kitchen and Cocina, and one can expect that the fruitful partnership will continue to prove delicious. 38 East 19th Street, no website yet — Alicia Kennedy

Modern Love Brooklyn Opens September 21 Every vegan knows the name Isa Chandra Moskowitz: Her cookbooks take up major shelf space, from the classic Vegan With a Vengeance to the seminal tome Veganomicon, written with regular collaborator Terry Hope-Romero. Because of this, everyone outside Omaha was extremely jealous when she opened Modern Love in the Nebraska city in 2014, serving up refined comfort food like seitan wings, mac & shews, and lemon lavender cheesecake. We’re finally getting our own Modern Love here in Brooklyn this month, thanks to the folks at MooShoes, who have had the Williamsburg building where it will be located in their family for years. (The MooShoes crew are also opening their own Orchard Grocer, a completely vegan shop, on the Lower East Side.) On Instagram, Moskowitz and her cooks have been testing such dishes as seitan chops with applesauce, brussels sprouts, and shiitake bacon, and a vegan surf and turf, so there’s a lot to be excited about. 317 Union Avenue, Brooklyn, — Alicia Kennedy

Gotham Market at the Ashland Opens in October There’s seemingly no limit to the number of food halls this city can sustain. In Fort Greene, Gotham West Market, which has run a Hell’s Kitchen hall since 2014, has set up camp on the ground floor of the Ashland, a luxury high-rise at Ashland Place and Fulton Street. On offer in the space will be Mu Ramen, Apizza Regionale, Flip Bird, the Southern-focused Mason Jar, a rotating pop-up space, and four other yet-to-be-determined spots. If you were hoping for more dining options around BAM before a movie or show, you’re now in luck. 590 Fulton Street, Brooklyn, no website yet — Alicia Kennedy

Lalo Opens in October El Rey Coffee Bar & Luncheonette was quite the hot spot when it opened in 2013, serving porkless chicharrones, spicy papas bravas, and a shockingly perfect kale salad. Then chef Gerardo Gonzalez left this spring and announced his next venture: Lalo, in Chinatown, an old-school style lunch counter with a $15 prix fixe option. It seems the food will be as cheeky and Latin-inspired as we’ve come to expect from Gonzalez, with dishes like chorizo-and-hibiscus-stuffed squid, a “Brown Goddess Salad,” and roasted squash with shaved mojama, gomashio, lemon, and tahini. And though Gonzalez is delving further into the world of animal protein — no kale salad here — there will still be plenty of options for the meat-averse. 104 Bayard Street, no website yet — Alicia Kennedy

Leuca Opens in October Williamsburg’s got a new hotel, the William Vale, and it’s not playing around when it comes to food. The team the hotel’s owners are taking on to cover the dining at its in-house restaurant, rooftop bar, and pool? Andrew Carmellini and Noho Hospitality Group (of the Dutch, Locanda Verde, Bar Primi, and others), here making their first foray into Brooklyn. The Southern Italian restaurant, Leuca, is the most exciting part of the endeavor, offering “wood-fired coastal fare” for breakfast, lunch, and dinner services. Up on the 22nd-floor roof, the bar, Westlight, will focus on classic cocktails, with street-food-inspired bar snacks. 111 North 12th Street, Brooklyn, — Alicia Kennedy

Atla Opens in November Enrique Olvera has gradually joined the ranks of Grant Achatz, Dominique Crenn, and René Redzepi as a chef whose name makes your ears perk up. Of course, they’ve all been featured on Netflix’s Chef’s Table, but you also can be assured that whatever they’re working on is going to receive a ton of attention — likely for good reason. Olvera entered New York City with Cosme in the Flatiron district in October of 2014, and his husk meringue filled with corn mousse began appearing, gorgeously cracked open, on the Instagram feed of every food obsessive in town. Now, at Atla, he’ll be serving a more casual Mexican menu for around 65 seats in Noho. The menu has yet to be determined, but fingers crossed for more affordable and accessible options. 372 Lafayette Street, no website yet — Alicia Kennedy

Made Nice To be announced Restaurateurs with three Michelin stars don’t open up fast-casual restaurants every day, so it’s quite the event that Daniel Humm and Will Guidara — owners of Eleven Madison Park and the NoMad — will be going counter-style at their new place, Made Nice. It will be right next to the NoMad, offering meals in the $10-to-$15 range. The vegetable-focused menu should still have some fancy cachet, though, as it will be served on the same kind of tableware featured at their upscale spots. When another big-name chef, former Eleven Madison Park owner Danny Meyer, dipped a toe into fast-food waters to start Shake Shack in 2004, the hot dogs were made in the Eleven Madison Park kitchen. Let’s see if affordable-and-great-food gold can be struck twice. 8 West 28th Street, — Alicia Kennedy