Italian food in the U.S. is a struggle for vegans. Red-sauce joints cover everything in mozzarella, leaving you to resort to pasta in oil and garlic — with a smattering of sautéed vegetables, if you’re lucky. Adelina’s, on Greenpoint Avenue just off Manhattan Avenue, has been changing that perception, quietly. Owner Toby Buggiani, who grew up in Italy, became vegetarian in his hardcore-scene youth and made feeding vegans a major part of his restaurant’s mission. There are now Meatless Mondays with guest chefs, special extensive brunches in partnership with the chef known as Mississippi Vegan, and — the true coup — pizzas covered in a cashew-based mozzarella so creamy, rich, and tangy that you could easily mistake it for the real thing. Whereas other pizzerias attempt vegan cheese — Paulie Gee’s and Screamer’s are two others in Greenpoint — Adelina’s is honing a recipe that every dairy-free eater on Instagram is going crazy for. Combine that with fluffy gnocchi in pesto, vegan desserts, and an incredible natural wine selection, and Adelina’s is bound to become a destination.
159 Greenpoint Avenue, Brooklyn