After converting her parents’ sleepy Lombardian gelateria into a rule-breaking Milanese chain (back home, her shops serve irreverently savory scoops out of solar-powered carts), Monia Solighetto saw promise in Park Slope as a place both to raise a family and to spread the word. That’s how L’Albero dei Gelati — or “The Tree of Ice Cream” — came to spill out on a slice of Fifth Avenue. Charming almost to a fault, the chain’s only U.S. outpost offers counter service and hides a garden out back, where ultra-fresh gelato is served plated and garnished and can be paired with wines or even charcuterie. The company follows the tenets of Slow Food, the think tank headquartered west of Milan that anchors the artisanal movement today so tied to Brooklyn. And so its menu runs the scope of the farmers’ market, with seasonal gelato flavors that can range from persimmon to a surprisingly tasty blue cheese. Fresh-baked tuppo, a sort of Italian brioche, might arrive with Jersey jam, via a server who’s probably Italian. It’s old-world charm in the heart of new-Brooklyn madness.
341 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn
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