Brooklyn-raised Matthew Hyland takes inspiration from Naples for the quirky pies at Emily, the understated Kings County pizzeria he runs with his wife, who also inspired the restaurant’s name. But despite a compelling roster of wood-fired pizzas divided by sauce color (red, pink, green, or white/sauceless), Hyland’s burger threatens to outshine his yeasty obsession. Only 25 of the dry-aged patties are made available each night (they’re “unlimited” during Sunday lunch), and they sell out quickly. Snag one and revel in its deep beefiness, hidden beneath a thick blanket of Grafton cheddar, sautéed onions, and “EMMY” sauce — a garlic-butter-laced Korean gochujang mayonnaise with a funky tang. The burger’s pretzel bun, made by the venerable Tom Cat Bakery, manages to be both soft and resilient, containing the juicy mess without falling apart. The sandwich has proven so popular that Hyland even combined his two specialties, selling a special burger pizza (known as “The Goods”) that sounds like the nightmare of cardiologists the world over. 919 Fulton Street, Brooklyn 11238, 347-844-9588, pizzalovesemily.com
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