Chongqing Chicken Obsession, Part Two


In my last dispatch from Chongqing chicken obsession, I told you about eating the dish–composed mainly of chiles, augmented with some fried chicken–at Grand Sichuan House in Bay Ridge and Grand Sichuan St. Marks, in the East Village.

The dish is named after its native home, Chongqing, a municipality near Sichuan province that Fuschia Dunlop describes as having a “filthy magnificence.” I don’t know about filthy, but Chong Qing chicken is magnificent. It involves dried red chiles, sliced fresh green chiles and a great quantity of mouth-numbing Sichuan peppercorns, fried in oil with garlic and tossed with bite-sized nubbins of fried chicken.

Today I came across Metro Cafe, a month-old restaurant on Eighth Avenue in Sunset Park’s Chinatown–and it’s the first proper Sichuan restaurant I know of in the neighborhood. I’m planning on doing a full review, so I don’t want to scoop myself here, but this restaurant is a weird and wonderful place, combining traditional Sichuan dishes with an assortment of Japanese snacks and Beijing-style grilled skewers.

But today we’re just here to obsess over the Chongqing chicken, which I present to you above, in its cardboard container, its marvelousness undiluted by taking it to go.

Metro Cafe
4924 Eighth Avenue, Brooklyn

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