Best Of

Best Restaurant in Gowanus

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On an otherwise dreary section of Fourth Avenue in Gowanus sits a beacon of good dining: 2 Duck Goose, a modern Chinese eatery taglined “Cantonese style with a twist.” In the whitewashed, exposed-brick space, chef Ben Pope, a native of Hong Kong with French culinary training, shows off his mastery of Cantonese spices and traditional Western technique in plates like paper bag fish, where a delicately cooked filet of branzino is cradled by sweet tomatoes, umami cubes of roasted shiitake mushrooms, and thick stripes of ginger that infuse the senses when the papillote is cut open. Other highlights include a Cantonese borscht stew with slow-braised beef and a healthy portion of roast pork char siu, prepared three different ways: seasonal, modern, or classic.