West Village stalwart Annisa won’t be topped, despite the rotation of West Village restaurants challenging the reigning champ for best in the neighborhood each year. Chef Anita Lo — who still cooks her own food — paints nuanced Asian flavors onto contemporary American dishes with precise French technique, creating an amalgamation of revelatory flavors. Lo can’t relinquish cult favorite foie gras soup dumplings, a concept fixed in the annals of culinary genius, for fear of uproar from longtime customers. But much of her menu changes seasonally, giving you a good excuse to return frequently. The serene, understated room rightly forces focus on the food — not that it’s necessary.