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Best Restaurant in Bed-Stuy

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Chef John Poiarkoff taps his Russian roots for the seasonal pierogi at Willow, the progressive New American restaurant he opened inside a jagged, standalone building beside the elevated Franklin Avenue–Fulton Street subway station. Any given week, the crimped dumplings might arrive next to sour-cream-simmered morels or sitting in a moat of kimchi, their skins filled with potato and oxtail. They’re a prime example of the compelling and experimental style Poiarkoff, bartender Torrey Bell-Edwards, and pastry chef Lisa Smaroff all adopt when performing their respective crafts. The result is a neighborhood restaurant that straddles the line between local haunt and destination, hawking beef that’s been dry-aged for 75 days, pork-fat-spiked corn soup poured tableside over scallop tartare, and $20 plates of wild boar belly with snap peas and berries. Smaroff puts together charmingly wild desserts, butting chocolate up against raw fennel and corn with husk cherries and tomatoes. 506 Franklin Avenue, Brooklyn 11238, 718-399-2384, willowbk.com

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