Tucked into the historic Forman Building at 185 Broadway, The Sparrow has become one of the more interesting places to eat and drink in Williamsburg. The space is housed in a landmark that once housed the Sparrow Shoe Company, and the design leans into that history. A 25-foot bar anchors the room, backed by close to 1,000 bottles. The lighting is low. The booths are worn in. It feels like a place that has been there longer than it has.
It’s a brasserie in the classic sense. Built for long dinners, good conversation, and the kind of night where you order one more round because you don’t want to leave yet.
A Love Letter to Old New York
“I Want to keep alive the vibe that used to be New York,” says Dawn Eldridge, the woman behind it all. “People don’t know what New York is anymore. We’re trying to give an experience. I like to play on that. It’s very rooted in New York in the Gilded Age but set in modern times. When you walk in, you need to have a martini here.”
That philosophy shows up everywhere. In the room, in the service, in the little moments that make a night out feel like something. One of those moments is the caviar program. A server moves through the dining room with a caviar service, offering it tableside to guests. It’s the kind of detail that feels like it belongs to a different era of New York dining, and it’s exactly the point.
The Woman Running the Show
Eldridge is the creative force behind both the bar and the kitchen. She earned a Michelin star as head bartender at the Clocktower in Manhattan, worked alongside Sasha Petraske of Milk and Honey, spent time with Andrew Carmellini of NoHo Hospitality, and collaborated with Top Chef Gavin Armstrong at Willie Jane in Venice. Before The Sparrow, she ran Citroen Bistro and Cocktail Bar in Greenpoint, a Michelin-reviewed spot that built a loyal following before closing in late 2024.
Twenty-five years in, she knows what she’s doing. The Sparrow is the most complete expression of that so far.
The Spring Cocktail Menu
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The new spring cocktail list is in, and among the eclectic list of beverages, there are a few that definitely stand out.
The Sea Witch is built on Amaras Mezcal and tequila, with serrano-infused Green Chartreuse, cilantro cordial, roasted pineapple, and lime. The mezcal brings the smoke, the Chartreuse carries a quiet heat, and the pineapple ties it together.
The Night Owl layers Copali Cacao Rum, Ten to One Light Rum, and cachaça, rounded out with spiced pear, pepita orgeat, and orange. The pepita orgeat is the thing. It gives the drink a toasted, nutty depth that keeps it grounded.
I Can’t Be Bothered is the softest of the three. Chamomile-infused Hayman’s Gin, Alpeggio hay, lemon, egg white, and Tea Pot Bitters. Floral, grassy, a little unexpected.
The Rack of Lamb Deserves Its Own Paragraph
The food menu holds its own alongside all of it. Roasted beets over a curry lentil vinaigrette arrive scattered with edible flowers, looking more like a garden than a plate. The rack of lamb, herb crusted and served over a deep red jus, comes out looking like it belongs in a cooking magazine. The raw bar runs from a half-dozen oysters to full plateaux de mer, and the caviar service remains one of the more civilized ways to spend a Tuesday night in Brooklyn.
Get the Reservation. Dress Accordingly.
The Sparrow is the rare restaurant that lives up to its own atmosphere. The spring cocktail menu is the best version of what Dawn Eldridge has been building toward for 25 years, and everyone should experience the classic New York vibe that she’s trying to keep alive.
The Sparrow is located at 185 Broadway in Williamsburg. Reservations via Resy.