Welcome to 100 Dishes to Eat Now, Fork in the Road’s handy list of some of our favorite dishes — old standbys and new finds alike — compiled daily.
Today’s pick: Taleggio, Broccoli Rabe, and Sausage Panini ($11) at Bocca Lupo (391 Henry Street, Brooklyn).
By this point in the summer, some have consumed enough ice cream and fried food to feed a small army of children. They are over stone fruit already. They don’t want to hear about your lobster roll. They are hot, and want to pretend it’s fall, and that they’re not sweating bullets each and every time they walk out the door.
Off a tree-lined street in Cobble Hill is a small Italian restaurant specializing in tramezzini and panini. Bocca Lupo was quite the hotshot when it opened four years ago, but the one dish consistently solid on the menu, no matter the season, is that ciabatta panini, pressed tight with earthy taleggio and sautéed mushrooms; broccoli rabe heated with garlic and a few stray chile flakes; and garlicky, fennel-seed-spiked sausage. It’s autumnal as all get out, but not so much as, say, a cassoulet: You won’t fall off your bicycle on the ride home.
The bar — a slim, elegant number — usually has seats to spare on a weeknight, so pull up there and tuck into this sandwich with a fruity red that’s light on tannins, like the smoky, berry-laden Rosso Piceno from de Angelis ($9), a montepulciano-sangiovese blend. The little votives on the bar will cast just enough light by which to read a novel or seduce a date, and the A/C, friends, is strong.
Previously in the countdown:
Dish No. 100: Zaragoza Grocery’s Flor de Calabaza Quesadilla
Dish No. 99: No. 7 Sub Shop’s General Tso’s Tofu Sandwich
Dish No. 98: Nigerian Goat Stew From Baku
Dish No. 97: The Captain’s Daughter From Saltie
Dish No. 96: Bun Bo Hue From Thanh Da
Dish No. 95: The Beauty From Mile End
Dish No. 94: Potato, Egg, and Provolone on a Roll at Torrisi Italian Specialties
Dish No. 93: The Terrine Board at the Breslin Bar and Dining Room
Dish No. 92: Sausage and Egg Breakfast at La Bonbonniere
Dish No. 91: Roasted Carrots at Porchettta
Dish No. 90: Spicy Miso Ramen at Ramen Setagaya
Dish No. 89: Peanut Butter Pretzel Pie From First Prize Pies
Dish No. 88: Brown Butter, Corn, and Mushroom Linguine at Buttermilk Channel
Dish No. 87: Katsudon at Ennju
Dish No. 86: Fried Chicken With Two Sides at Soul Fixins
Dish No. 85: Fried Lamb Intestines at El Quinto Pino
Dish No. 84: Kunafa From Nablus Sweets
Dish No. 83: Potato Flatbread at Sahadi’s
Dish No. 82: Chicken-Fried Chicken Livers at Cornbread Diner
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 6, 2010
More:100 Favorite Dishes