Welcome to 100 Dishes to Eat Now, Fork in the Road’s handy list of some of our favorite dishes — old standbys and new finds alike — compiled daily.
Today’s pick: The Super Heebster ($10.45) from Russ & Daughters.
While Russ’s star attraction is its immaculate smoked and cured salmon, its whitefish salad is also a thing of salty, savory beauty. The Super Heebster provides it with an excellent showcase: A generous helping of the salad — which is made from smoked whitefish, baked salmon, chopped onions, and a bit of mayonnaise — is heaped onto a bagel that’s been anointed with a smear of horseradish cream cheese, and then topped off with a spoonful of wasabi-flavored flying fish roe.
The sandwich is a vibrant crazy-quilt of heat, umami, smoke, and salt, and also boasts plenty of textural thrills that come courtesy of the cream cheese, whipped to ethereal heights; the crunchy, snappy roe; the silky, voluptuous whitefish salad; and the bagel, which boasts a nice, shiny crust and pleasantly chewy innards. While you can get pretty much any bagel you’d like — there’s now even a whole-wheat Everything — we recommend pumpernickel or Everything.
We also recommend eating the Super Heebster as soon as humanly possible after purchase, preferably on the bench outside the shop, which affords the opportunity to contemplate the Lower East Side as you chew through the perfect alchemy of the neighborhood’s savory past and irreverent, unexpected present.
Russ & Daughters
179 East Houston Street
Next: The entire countdown so far in reverse numerical order!
Previously in the countdown:
Dish No. 100: Zaragoza Grocery’s Flor de Calabaza Quesadilla
Dish No. 99: No. 7 Sub Shop’s General Tso’s Tofu Sandwich
Dish No. 98: Nigerian Goat Stew From Baku
Dish No. 97: The Captain’s Daughter From Saltie
Dish No. 96: Bun Bo Hue From Thanh Da
Dish No. 95: The Beauty From Mile End
Dish No. 94: Potato, Egg, and Provolone on a Roll at Torrisi Italian Specialties
Dish No. 93: The Terrine Board at the Breslin Bar and Dining Room
Dish No. 92: Sausage and Egg Breakfast at La Bonbonniere
Dish No. 91: Roasted Carrots at Porchettta
Dish No. 90: Spicy Miso Ramen at Ramen Setagaya
Dish No. 89: Peanut Butter Pretzel Pie From First Prize Pies
Dish No. 88: Brown Butter, Corn, and Mushroom Linguine at Buttermilk Channel
Dish No. 87: Katsudon at Ennju
Dish No. 86: Fried Chicken With Two Sides at Soul Fixins
Dish No. 85: Fried Lamb Intestines at El Quinto Pino
Dish No. 84: Kunafa From Nablus Sweets
Dish No. 83: Potato Flatbread at Sahadi’s
Dish No. 82: Chicken-Fried Chicken Livers at Cornbread Diner
Dish No. 81: Taleggio, Broccoli Rabe, and Sausage Panini at Bocca Lupo
Dish No. 80: Hamburger at M. Wells in Long Island City
Dish No. 79: Vanilla Malted at Brooklyn Farmacy
Dish No. 78: Seafood Combo With Hot Sauce From Randazzo’s Clam Bar
Dish No. 77: Fried Ipswich Clams at Ed’s Lobster Bar
Dish No. 76: Banh Uot Thit Nuong (Grilled Pork and Noodles) at Co Ba
Dish No. 75: Schiacciata con l’Uva at Sullivan Street Bakery
Dish No. 74: Cornish Pasty at Myers of Keswick
Dish No. 73: Baklava at Güllüoglu
Dish No. 72: Sauerkraut Noodles at 8th Avenue Noodles
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 18, 2010
More:100 Favorite Dishes