Sottocasa opened this past fall in Boreum Hill from Kesté alum Luca Arrigoni, who has brought a wood-fired oven from Italy to make his Neapolitan-style pies. The sunken, white-washed pizzeria offers a selection of pies, both classic (margherita, marinara, etc.) and a selection of more innovative house specials like one topped with radicchio, sausage, and smoked mozzarella, or the Laura, which features mozzarella, speck, mascarpone, and rosemary. We enjoyed all the pies sampled on a recent visit, though the standout was probably the salsiccia, or the simple sausage-topped pie.
The $14 pie (approximately 11 inches) was nicely sauced, just slightly tart, and featured a very puffy crust with a good amount of char. Yes, you can get sausage pies everywhere, but the quality of both the meat and cheese was what made this a really notable pizza. Sweet and creamy fresh mozzarella oozes across the disk, punctured with niblets of nicely spiced porky sausage and a sprinkling of fresh basil leaves. It’s both satisfying and delicious. While not cheap, it’s certainly less expensive than some of the other gourmet pizza spots in the borough, and the atmosphere is decidedly cozy, perfect for a casual date night in the neighborhood. Boerum Hill, your secret’s out.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on December 23, 2011