Robert Sietsema at Rosarito Fish Shack; Lauren Shockey at Maharlika


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema likes the tacos, but finds other menu items rather fishy at Rosarito Fish Shack. Lauren Shockey discovers a Filipino Moderno brunch that shines at Maharlika.

Sam Sifton awards two stars to Tertulia, where chef-owner Seamus Mullen is “cooking now at the very top of his game.”
[NY Times]

Adam Platt also approves of Tertulia:
“[Mullen’s] cooking here is authentic in its essential Spanishness, but it’s also brawny, seasonal, and deeply flavored in a nuevo rústico, distinctly New York kind of way.”
[NY Magazine]

Steve Cuozzo revisits Lincoln, bumping his one and a half stars up to three: “Today, Lincoln is better, but much of the improvement is on the floor, where the once-awkward crew now delivers three-star service. … Even so, problems in the kitchen stubbornly persist.”
[NY Post]

Jay Cheshes finds hits and misses at Café de La Esquina at Wythe Diner: “Many old classics remain, simply tweaked, not reinvented. They’re among the best stuff at the new restaurant, and the most recognizably Mexican.”

Gael Greene finagles her way into Crown: “For a while, a mere mortal could actually book 6:30 or 10 p.m. after a long, severe punishment waiting on hold. Then silence. Hold didn’t end till you hung up. … Still, given such distracting social tremors, the kitchen is doing quite well with its mission.”
[Insatiable Critic]

Tables for Two squeezes into a packed Earl’s Beer & Cheese: “Eating frequently at Earl’s may result in untimely death; at least this could keep the numbers down.”
[New Yorker]