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ZuZu Ramen Leads the Noodle Charge East

The ramen explosion crosses the river

One night, our group of four ordered a bunch of appetizers (which range from serviceable vegetable gyoza to fantastically juicy, chewy-skinned pork gyoza), ramen, and glasses of sake. The sake at ZuZu is served in small boxes, which is one of the traditional ways to serve the beverage. In a ritual gesture of generosity that seems a bit odd when performed by a bored-looking hipster, the servers pour the sake until it flows out of the box completely, floods the saucer beneath, and drips onto the table. Trying to pick up the box meant spilling even more sake, so instead, we lowered our heads and lapped at the boxes, like wildebeest at the watering hole. I appreciate the generosity, but that's one stab at tradition I could do without.

Even if ZuZu isn't the ultimate ramen in New York (and, to be fair, it's aiming more to be a comfy neighborhood spot than a destination), it's exciting to find a young chef who has classical skills but is not yoked to tradition—you never know what he might think of next. Clam-chowder ramen? I'd try it.

ZuZu peddles: Ramen gets an upgrade
Calvin Godfrey
ZuZu peddles: Ramen gets an upgrade

Location Info

Map

ZuZu Ramen

173 4th Ave.
Brooklyn, NY 11217

Category: Restaurant > Asian

Region: Brooklyn

Details

ZuZu Ramen
173 Fourth Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-398-9898

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sdigregorio@villagevoice.com

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