Bed-Stuy restaurant Do or Dine has more in common with Spain’s El Bulli than you may think. It’s fairly difficult to get to. Both restaurant’s figureheads (Justin Warner and Ferran Adrià, respectively) are keen on whimsically named dishes. And each restaurant is fond of spherification.
What is spherification? According to Wikipedia, it is “the culinary process of shaping a liquid into spheres which visually and technically resemble caviar.”
You’ll find Do or Dine’s using spherification on its cocktail menu, in the form of the Spherickle Back. Put in an order for one and you’ll be presented with a shot of whiskey and a small cup, the size of a soy sauce dish, holding a greenish, wiggly, golf ball.
Throw back the liquor, then pop the ball into your mouth — it feels reminiscent of the egg-shaped molded Jell-O that’s advertised around Easter. Put a little bit of pressure onto the mouthful and it will pop, releasing a rush of briney juice into your mouth and down your gullet.
It’s a savory shock that at least one drinker can’t get enough of. It will make your tongue dance like John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever. Which is appropriate since you’re imbibing in the midst of a disco ball.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on December 28, 2011