For all the times we’ve heard monkfish liver touted as “the foie gras of the sea,” it’s rare to come across a preparation of the finicky protein that actually lives up to the epithet. At Noreetuh (128 First Avenue, 646-892-3050), the Hawaiian restaurant and oenophile destination opened by three veterans of Per Se, chef Chung Chow prepares a monkfish liver torchon that surpasses its anatine relative.
Balancing on a jumble of jellied passionfruit and cubes of pickled pear, the disk of supremely creamy poached fish offal exhibits only a mild brininess. It spreads like butter onto accompanying slices of eggy, toasted sweet rolls from King’s Hawaiian bakery, which bolster the liver’s richness. Paired with the gussied-up fruit, it’s a ballsy, fun plate, and a wholly original take, evocative of the restaurant’s ethos, which emphasizes the multitude of influences on Hawaiian cuisine.
The Village Voice is counting down to our Best of New York City issue in October. We’re combing the city every day, one dish at a time, to guide you to the most delicious food in NYC. These are our 100 Favorite Dishes for 2015, in no particular order, save for the top 10. To read about previous dishes, browse the 100 Favorite Dishes page.