FOOD ARCHIVES

Bijan’s Persian-Inspired Brunch Breaks the Mold but Not the Wallet

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One big draw at Bijan’s brunch in Brooklyn’s Boerum Hill is its list of medicinal cocktails, many of which are infused with healthful components to counteract the booze. Each of them pairs well with a menu of Persian-inspired fare that breaks the typical brunch-time mold. And best of all? One of those drinks is included with your $15 entree.

Opt for one of seven brunchtime cocktails or a pair of virgin drinks, including a prosecco-based mimosa, a bellini dubbed the “Bijan Bee,” and the “Persian Kiss,” which pairs prosecco and pomegranate nectar. Bijan’s bloody mary isn’t strong, but it’s well garnished with a spear of olive, lemon, jalapeño, and cornichon, and the house-made roasted tomato mix has a kick to it. A generous pour of white-wine-and-lavender sangria is a strong choice, as is one of the more unusual brunch-time libations like “The Bijian”–a blend of vodka, pineapple juice, mint, elderflower, and cayenne pepper–and the “Ginger-rita,” which is a margarita garnished with a cucumber and leveled out with ginger ale.

And while just one cocktail is included in the price of your entree (alongside coffee or tea), the drinks are priced at $5–so if your morning calls for a bit more medicine, doctor Bijan’s fee it won’t set you back too much.

As for the food, don’t expect typical brunch offerings–notably absent is any incantation of eggs Benedict, for instance–but there are plenty of winners, including a breakfast pizza on a grilled flatbread crust topped with scrambled eggs, mozzarella cheese, and a choice of bacon, sausage, or veggies, as well as a Persian omelette packed with dates, a medley of vegetables, potatoes, cheese, and bacon (choose any or all of those toppings, by the way).

If you’re not a fan of eggs, the lamb burger is a succulent treat, as is the signature Bijan burger, made with a house blend of short ribs and ground chuck steak. A noteworthy item on the sandwiches list is the Persian chicken salad, which is heavily peppered, embellished with egg whites and celery, and laced with the lemony taste of the Persian spice sumac; it all plays well together on a sliced brioche bun. As an added bonus, the thin-cut herbed fries that come on the side are magnificent, if difficult to keep your dining companions from stealing.

Brunching with a crew? Bijan’s is not huge, but it tactically uses every square foot of real estate, deploying a mix of long picnic-style tables, high bar stools, and cozy four-tops, so it’s very possible to nab a table quickly whether you have a big group or just a few good friends.

Highlights