The Trencherman

‘Since July 15, I’ve spent tens of hours and hundreds of dollars at Der Pioneer. I know every inch of this space.’

Saying so long to New York’s temple of herbed french fries and superficial beauty

‘The last meal, as a resonant idea, seems to rest on an awareness of impending death. It’s different than just your favorite food. It’s your favorite food…and then you die.’

Revisiting the epochal meal that 35 years ago served as the Big Bang for American fine dining

“The William Barnacle Tavern on St. Marks is like a geode in the East Village: mostly empty but filled with gems”